A Bit of a Dandy

ardaniel:

So I was at WonderCon on Sunday, as it turns out, and yup, I saw that shirt. Yup, I turned that information over to Exhibitor Relations. And yup, I followed up with an email to CCI’s exhibitor email address:

Dear WonderCon 2014 exhibit staff:

First, congratulations on a great…

hobbitofunseenhogwarts:

Behind An Unexpected Journey: The kickass hobbit lady who stole the show behind the scenes.

bearhatalice:

hullodearie:

Fake Pockets: A How To

I have a pair of jean shorts that have both a fake pocket opening and the extra cloth to look like a pocket dangling below the cutoff line. WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT

Fake pockets are a crime against humanity, the gods, tailoring in general, and the natural order of the universe.

Only a Vogon would make fake pockets on clothes.

Ok, so maybe just one more photo of an incredible suit on the Italian tenor Beniamino Gigli.
From this Cutter and Tailor thread on excellent suits for larger gentlemen.

Ok, so maybe just one more photo of an incredible suit on the Italian tenor Beniamino Gigli.

From this Cutter and Tailor thread on excellent suits for larger gentlemen.

hallublin:

WE ARE ALL OF US CARLSBERG

hallublin:

WE ARE ALL OF US CARLSBERG

LIFE Magazine, 1939:

Right and Wrong Clothes for Boys and Girls: Snug fitting suit on a husky boy is likely to bind around middle, puff out at back and make boy look like a sausage.

Found this via PutThisOn’s article on fitting bigger gents. I encourage you to also look at the Cutter and Tailor thread for more examples of good fit for larger guys.

LIFE Magazine, 1939:

Right and Wrong Clothes for Boys and Girls: Snug fitting suit on a husky boy is likely to bind around middle, puff out at back and make boy look like a sausage.

Found this via PutThisOn’s article on fitting bigger gents. I encourage you to also look at the Cutter and Tailor thread for more examples of good fit for larger guys.

A Late Post about Suiting for Women

Late March, during Emerald City Comic Con, I had the opportunity to escape the gravity well of ECCC for a few minutes. Thanks to ardaniel and bearhatalice, I learned Saint Harridan was operating a pop-up shop over the same weekend as the con.

Saint Harridan was born from a desire to provide quality suiting in a masculine (think: classic suiting) cut for women and transmen. Mary, the founder, began work on the company after having a custom suit cut for her wedding. After a successful Kickstarter campaign, Saint Harridan is in business and touring pop-up shops around the US.

So, in the middle of the con I dipped out to see the suits in person, as I couldn’t find any explicit information on the construction methods on the brand’s webpages. I was excited about the prospect of having something to recommend, but very nervous that the suits would be fused (i.e. glued) rather than constructed with even a partial canvassing.

Good news! Saint Harridan suits are half-canvassed, which is a good middle-of-the-road solution, and fairly normal given their price range of $750 for a two piece suit. (For reference, I only know of two fully canvassed suit options at full retail in menswear under $1000 - Benjamin Sartorial at $525, and SuitSupply’s La Spalla at $999) From simple examination, the SH suitings appear to be mostly machine construction, which is expected at this price and made-in-the-USA labor costs. Don’t let that dissuade you, though - the suits are good and everyone I saw trying one looked great in them. In fact, I was a little weepy seeing so many people finding suits who have been so underserved in the industry. Mary knows what it means to wear a good suit, and how it impacts your sense of confidence; to see Mary’s company spreading this gospel is a powerful thing.

Construction worries alleviated, I have to say this is now my default recommendation for women and transmen who want a decent, well-cut suit. If you need a good suit, this is a good place to get it. 

Thrift note: Pricing is a good $100-150 less if you purchase while in one of SH’s touring pop-up shops, so if they’re in your town soon, that’s the time. (the pop-up shops also offer made-to-order suits in custom fabrics, so if you want something in a finer wool or even pure cashmere, this is where to get it)

naamahdarling:

BABIES.

*faints*

maxistentialist:

The Verge:

Scientists have discovered four species of Brazilian insects in which the females possess a penis and the males possess a vagina. This announcement, made today in the journal Current Biology, represents the first documented instance of a “female penis” in the animal kingdom.
Contrary to popular belief, the presence or absence of certain sex organs isn’t the determining factor when deciding which animal of a species is female and which is male. In fact, biologists don’t use sex chromosomes either. They actually rely on the size of an animal’s gametes — sperm in males and oocytes in females. As the rule goes, females are the sex that contribute the largest gametes, whereas males are the sex that contribute the smallest gametes and therefore expend the least amount of energy on producing these cells. So, in this particular instance of sex-role reversal, the convention still applies: the female in these species of insect produces the largest gametes — egg cells. She simply also happens to sport a penis that she introduces into the male’s vagina during copulation.
[…]
When it’s time to mate, the female mounts the male and penetrates his vagina-like opening using her gynosome — the term used to designate her female-penis. This mating behavior lasts for an impressive 40 to 70 hours, thanks to the female’s inflatable, spiny penis that anchors itself to the male’s internal tissues. During this time, the female Neotrogla gathers large quantities of sperm that she uses to fertilize her eggs. “Because the female’s anchoring force is very strong, a male’s resistance may cause damage to his genitalia,” Yoshizawa said. “Therefore, it is very likely that entire mating processes are controlled actively by females, whereas males are rather passive.”
Michael Siva-Jothy, an entomologist at the University of Sheffield, UK, who didn’t participate in this study, said in an email to The Verge that the findings are “really, really exciting.” Examples like this, he noted, allow researchers to examine various factors that drive how these traits evolve. When asked how the female penis might have evolved, however, Siva-Jothy was stumped. “This is so bizarre,” he said. “I don’t know where to begin.”

maxistentialist:

The Verge:

Scientists have discovered four species of Brazilian insects in which the females possess a penis and the males possess a vagina. This announcement, made today in the journal Current Biology, represents the first documented instance of a “female penis” in the animal kingdom.

Contrary to popular belief, the presence or absence of certain sex organs isn’t the determining factor when deciding which animal of a species is female and which is male. In fact, biologists don’t use sex chromosomes either. They actually rely on the size of an animal’s gametes — sperm in males and oocytes in females. As the rule goes, females are the sex that contribute the largest gametes, whereas males are the sex that contribute the smallest gametes and therefore expend the least amount of energy on producing these cells. So, in this particular instance of sex-role reversal, the convention still applies: the female in these species of insect produces the largest gametes — egg cells. She simply also happens to sport a penis that she introduces into the male’s vagina during copulation.

[…]

When it’s time to mate, the female mounts the male and penetrates his vagina-like opening using her gynosome — the term used to designate her female-penis. This mating behavior lasts for an impressive 40 to 70 hours, thanks to the female’s inflatable, spiny penis that anchors itself to the male’s internal tissues. During this time, the female Neotrogla gathers large quantities of sperm that she uses to fertilize her eggs. “Because the female’s anchoring force is very strong, a male’s resistance may cause damage to his genitalia,” Yoshizawa said. “Therefore, it is very likely that entire mating processes are controlled actively by females, whereas males are rather passive.”

Michael Siva-Jothy, an entomologist at the University of Sheffield, UK, who didn’t participate in this study, said in an email to The Verge that the findings are “really, really exciting.” Examples like this, he noted, allow researchers to examine various factors that drive how these traits evolve. When asked how the female penis might have evolved, however, Siva-Jothy was stumped. “This is so bizarre,” he said. “I don’t know where to begin.”

oscarwetnwilde:

Dylan Moran listens to The Dropkick Murphys.